Gemstones are often very tricky to trace back to their source, which is why we primarily use Wennick Lefevre as our main supplier of sapphires, as they not only use untreated, natural stones - they are also very transparent about where and how their stones are sourced. So much so that they invited us to visit Sri Lanka with them!
Susie and Amy from our design and bespoke team travelled to Ratnapura with a group of other jewellers from across the industry, where they explored this land rich in gemstones, visiting small-scale artisan mines, taking sourced stones to market and learning how the rough stones are cut into the sparkling gems you see in our finished pieces of jewellery.
It’s clear that the gem industry is ever changing and in order to be a responsible jeweller, we must be curious of our supply chains and ask questions about where our materials come from. If we don’t know who mined our stones or who cut them, then how can we be sure we are supporting local communities and not participating in social or environmental damage. Making connections at each stage of the supply chain means we can keep up to date with industry changes and adapt our approach to best benefit people and the planet.
Alex MonroeSri Lanka holds a wealth of sapphires, which are thankfully protected from exploitation to some degree, as small-scale artisanal mining is prioritised by the Government there. This protects the land from overuse and ensures a stable market which helps secure sufficient gem deposits for generations to come.
Most of the sapphire mines in Sri Lanka are what are referred to as “secondary” deposits, that are typically found far from the original source. Natural geological processes such as erosion shift rock fragments into streams where they are fractured, releasing any gems from within the rock. These gems then travel downstream and are deposited in river beds and lowlands, becoming known as “alluvial deposits”.
Here, a very concentrated amount of sapphires can be found - which are relatively easy to extract, so no destructive machinery is needed. Infact, the process has remained almost unchanged for centuries - gravel from the river bed is washed in a pan, sieve or basket, eventually revealing any gem material. Not only is this relatively primitive process kind to the environment, it is also accessible to most local people, making gem extraction a desirable job in rural areas.
The land surrounding rivers will also be rich in secondary sapphire deposits, which can be mined. In order to do this, a land mining licence must be obtained with a monetary deposit, which guarantees that the land is returned to its natural state once the mining is finished. This policy protects Sri Lanka’s nature and allows for regeneration, whilst still allowing local people to benefit from the land.
On the trip, the group visited such a mine, where they were greeted by a team of miners. Each team will have one member who sorts through the gravel, instantly recognising and picking our precious gems hidden amongst the pebbles. Everyone was amazed at how these highly skilled people could use their experience to identify the gemstones even from just the feel of the gravel!
Having spent a day with the community of miners I was most struck by their generosity and openness. We were welcomed into their plots with kindness and it was so clear that they enjoyed what they did and were proud to show us their skills and clever techniques.
Susie Ekelund Head of Design
Buying and selling of the stones will happen at various points of the stones journey, and during the trip the group also had the opportunity to attend an early morning roadside market where the rough stones are sold for the first time. After trading takes place, stones will be cut - in this case at Sunrise Facets lapidary, by Nilanthi and her team.
The craft of cutting, grinding and polishing gemstones is called lapidary. Nilanthi is the first female to own and run a lapidary in Sri Lanka - which we celebrated in our spotlight for International Women’s Day so it was a wonderful moment for Susie and Amy to finally meet her in person and see where some of our beautiful sapphires are cut. The group were also invited to try their hand at lapidary, giving them a new found appreciation for the skill and patience for this craft.
Within a team of thirteen at Sunrise Facets, each individual specialises in a different stage of the of the stone cutting process. The rough stone is first pre-formed to a shape and size close to the desired final result. It’s then attached to a dop - a special stick used to hold the stone securely in place, ready for faceting. From here, each facet is added by following a careful plan of angles to achieve the desired cut. In between every cut, the team continuously inspect the gemstones through their eye loupe to ensure absolute precision.
Many of the sapphires that we use in our pieces are Madagascan, which are often very clear and in a rainbow variety of colours - whereas Sri Lankan sapphires are typically blue, pink or yellow and have microscopic needle-like inclusions, creating what is often described as a “silk” and giving the stones a dreamy, watery appearance.
Moving out to the balcony of the workshop, Susie, Amy and the group were fascinated to learn that as sunlight differs depending on how close you are to the equator, the gemstones can actually show a difference in colour depending on where you are in the world!
Having met so many wonderful people and seen so many incredible skills first hand, from sourcing the stones to cutting them - taking a closer look at the finished sapphires in the Sri Lankan afternoon light was the perfect ending to the trip.
It’s perhaps too easy to be swept away by the beauty of a finished piece of jewellery, but what makes it really special to me is the story told by each skilled individual who had a hand in bringing that jewel to life, be that the miner, cutter or jeweller. Each skilled hand represents a thriving community, linked together in the celebration of nature and humanity.
Susie Ekelund Head of Design
A New Generator
Ongoing power shortages in Sri Lanka were having a major impact on the Sunrise Facets lapidary, owned by Nilanthi Thisera, causing disruptions to her business.
Upon hearing of the difficulties with power shortages, Wennick–Lefèvre set about to provide Sunrise Facets with a generator. Alex Monroe is pleased to have contributed 50% of the cost, along with the Wennick–Lefèvre team to provide this, ensuring the team can continue to work safely and consistently.
We are proud to play a small part in this kind of support as an extended business family, which has made a major difference for Nilanthi and her team.
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